Fashion and music tend to be intertwined, especially in alternative subcultures. Punks, metalheads, goths, and many people who take part in consuming these songs also dress according to the standards that have grown throughout the years.
Each culture has its own specific fashion staples, like punks wearing ripped clothing, leather jackets, and safety pins as accessories. Most people could point out the alternative group a person is a part of, these styles have made an impact in countries across the globe. However, Visual Kei, a Japanese alternative genre, has an effect that is silenced across many cultures.
The term “Visual Kei” has two main points. The word “Visual” is representative of the high fashion that is prevalent in the subculture. When viewing outfits worn by band members, the first thing that stands out is the heavy visuals in each look, from the bursts of color to the intense and intricate makeup.
The word “Kei” means style in English, the visual style of each band is essential and is what distinguishes the subculture from other rock, metal, and punk groups.
This phrase didn’t originate randomly, rather it was inspired by the genre's pioneers. XJapan was formed in 1982 by a man named Yoshiki Hayashi who was inspired by the many alternative movements from the 70’s and 80’s. In Japan, enjoying this more punk and gothic style was shamed by many in the older, conservative generation.
So for bands like XJapan, getting published in the media was extremely difficult. However, once Yoshiki came together with his bandmates and released music, they were able to break barriers in the industry and relate to the generation they were a part of. Their popularity created a famous slogan, “Psychedelic Violence Crime of Visual Shock” which turned into the name of the genre they practically created, “Visual Kei.”
XJapan was not the only one to create waves within the industry, rather many bands alongside them turned the movement into what it is now. Buck-Tick is one of the most famous Visual Kei bands today, having a 40-year run and releasing 23 studio albums. More icons are Dir En Grey, Lariene, L'Arc~En~Ciel, and Malice Mizer.
The number of bands that formed their own version of Visual Kei is endless. These core 80’s and 90’s groups have turned fashion and music into what it is today, a mix of the alternative, the elegant, and the grotesque.
Visual Kei has many different variations under its title. When taking a “Tanbi” band like Lariene, the music sounds classical with piano and violin included in the sound. Their fashions are the same, focusing on clothing from the Victorian and Romanticism Eras.
In contrast, “Kote” bands tended to have more punk looks with extreme hairstyles, darker color schemes, and goth-esque makeup. It is difficult to point to one band and say they are the embodiment of the culture because the term is broad and covers many fronts. Every group brings something different and elevates the topic.
Even when considering the classic bands, the new generation, and all those in between, with the niche genre that Visual Kei is, it is difficult to have a true grasp on all the creations made. However, every single one has contributed to the lasting impact created. In today’s era, Visual Kei made the alternative acceptable.
Now bands like Babymetal, a female metal group, can thrive in Japanese society. The style promotes originality in this modern age, allowing people to express themselves without guilt. There are many alternative styles in Japan currently, fashion cultures under the name Decora, Lolita, and Ouji all take influences from those 90’s bands discussed. This is not just in the East either.
Americans have been aware of Visual Kei for decades now. There have always been small communities of fans spreading awareness about this subculture. While in many American states, self-expression is common, at times it feels difficult to tap into the extreme.
Many young people of this generation have discovered Visual Kei music and fashion and clung to it. The originality and the authenticity of it all have led people to find new passions themselves.
On Tik-Tok, there are many popular videos of influencers trying on Visual Kei makeup, countless songs have trended on the platform, and there are “Get Ready With Me” videos following those dressing like their favorite bands. Visual Kei is in no way popular, leading to the disbandment of many talented groups, however, there is a new wave of dedicated fans, allowing many bands to succeed.
Whether in Japan or countries across the world, Visual Kei is an unspoken phenomenon. The beauty of the genre is unknown by billions, and the hard work put out by these performers goes unrecognized. However, the subculture is still silently making waves.
Whether it be getting parts of Japan to be more accepting of the alternative, creating fashion statements never done before, or simply putting out exceptional music, these bands have created a name for themselves. Even if they aren’t featured on Billboard or winning awards, the bands that find themselves under the label Visual Kei are still making an impact.
