Asian beauty standards have evolved over time, and have a deep, rich history which can explain some of the beauty expectations of today. So what are beauty standards, what is the history of the evolution of beauty, particularly in South East Asia, and why is the expectation of being 'beautiful' so competitive in Asia? Let's unpack all of this in some depth.

(I do not want to generalise Asian culture as it encompasses an extremely wide range of cultures, customs, and attitudes. I don’t mean that all Asians are obsessed with youth and beauty, because that can’t be true, but this is more of an analysis of the general depiction of beauty in East Asia throughout history).

What are Asian beauty standards?

It's very hard to generalise Asia, but East Asia will be the focus of this discussion, and countries in this region (China, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan) have a similar direction to beauty categorisation. In many East Asian cultures, beauty standards place a strong emphasis on a V-shaped face and a refined jawline. Double eyelid surgery is a popular procedure, creating a crease that makes the eyes appear larger (this is known in South Korea as aegyosal, which people usually enhance through makeup if they cannot afford the surgery).

A higher nose bridge adds definition and symmetry to the face, and is a standard which is desired in East Asian countries. For Asian beauty standards, the whiter the skin, the better. A sun-kissed, tanned look is seen as healthy in some Western countries, but not in Eastern Asian beauty culture; fair skin is deemed the most attractive.

Asian beauty standards idealise a petite figure, slim waist, and a slender appearance. Plus-sized bodies are often overlooked, and having curves and fuller hips are seen as 'unnatural' features. As well as having a slim, lean body, staying as young as possible is what East Asians usually aim for, rather than valuing a natural ageing process.

Image Credit: Bin Thieu from Unsplash.

Being "beautiful" in Asian culture is very difficult to meet, as they'll always be criticism, no matter if you have the palest skin and the skinniest body or if you tick all the boxes. It's tough to even get compliments, but this can be said for any country; however, it is a common denominator if you visit a country like Japan, China, or South Korea.

Even idols and the most famous of celebrities in East Asia will be scrutinised for not being 'feminine' enough or that they are 'too dark'. Asian beauty standards are certainly more unforgiving of flaws compared to those of Western culture. There's much more of a diverse landscape to beauty, and it isn't limited to just one strict look type.

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Toxicity Of Beauty Standards In Whole

Asian beauty standards are toxic, like any standard; they make you believe that you need to look and be a certain way to be seen as pretty. The matter of fact is that all beauty standards are toxic; they force people to think and feel unattractive. People believe they are unattractive because of the standards established by certain cultures.

Beauty standards, no matter what context, are extremely detrimental to one's well-being and are often exclusively targeted towards young females. These standards can cause many problems with self-consciousness and normalise changing your natural beauty to fit a certain stereotype. The requirements of having the discussed features convey to people who do not possess these characteristics to be unattractive and not valued. Societal pressure causes many to reconsider their worth.

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Influence Of Western Culture.

America has a big influence on the Asian world. The Westernisation of Asian beauty meant that standards have shifted, as well as the Korean Wave, where the strictness of standards has tightened and become increasingly more unrealistic. South Korean beauty standards have prioritised the maintenance of youth and looking as young as possible, which has led to new hybrid ideals that are unique to Korea, but also influenced by the toxicity of Western stereotypes.

Larger eyes and more prominent noses carried from Western culture have fused into the standard in Asia, as growing interaction with America (particularly after the Second World War) means that incorporation of Western beauty has become prevalent.

To create a more 'doll-like' appearance (which stems from a Western aesthetic point of view), people living in South Korea have adopted this "Life In Plastic" to embody a more surgically-enhanced face and body. This calls from the opinions of the Western world, who live in a youth-oriented society driven by the belief that staying young is the way forward.

Regardless of which standards someone abides to, comparing ourselves to an unrealistic depiction is damaging to our confidence and own self-worth, especially when the standard is nearly impossible to achieve. No beauty standard is realistic nor achievable, so why have them? It's more to determine the culture and social identity of a place, and for social comparison (which is inherent everywhere, no matter how much one wants to escape from it).

History Of Asian Beauty Standards.

Beauty standards are shaped by cultural, societal, and historical contexts, which lead to unique ideals across different regions. Cultural influences have played a significant role in shaping the beauty standards of today, and traditional beauty ideals in Asia are rooted in cultural heritage, particularly in the three Dynasties in Korean history.

During the Silla Dynasty, the ideology of young-yook-il-chi-sa-sang (emphasising the harmony of inner virtue) carried the belief that a beautiful body equated to a beautiful soul.

In the Goryeo Dynasty, clear skin became central to the beauty standard; glowing skin with lighter makeup and advanced skincare routines reflected the natural refinement of one's physical body.

In the Joseon Dynasty, societal norms reinforced traditional roles, and their aesthetics focused on simplicity. Their characteristics included the sambaek (three whites), samheuk (three blacks), and samhong (three reds), which emphasised fair skin, dark features, and rosy accents, laying the foundations for many Korean features we know of today, such as the clear skin and importance of looking after ones own skin.

The three dynasties discussed highlight how physical appearance was crucial and had a certain connection to social values and heritage identity.

The Silla Dynasty was primarily focused on harmonious elegance with more maximalist styles, but the shift to simplicity of Joseon meant Korea was entering an era that prioritised balance and naturality. The transformative histories across the dynasties define South Korea as a place that is known for its skincare practices and makeup tips, but the influence of the West in contemporary society has made Korea less abiding by the standard upheld by the Joseon Dynasty, where a light shone on natural beauty.

In Ancient China, pale skin indicated wealth and status. Those who worked outdoors on the agricultural lands had darker skin (most likely because they were being tanned by the sunlight). Having a slim figure was important too, and having small hands and feet was considered more attractive, and was a poignant feature of beauty ideals. Among some younger Chinese women, having tanned skin is starting to be seen as healthier and more attractive.

The Four Great Beauties of China helps understand Chinese beauty history in greater depth. The Beauties are four women present in Chinese folktales and media.

1. Wang Zhaojun is said to have been so beautiful that birds would forget to flap their wings and fall out of the sky.
2. Yang Guifei is said to have made all the flowers hide away in embarrassment when she walked by.
3. Xi Shi is said to have been so beautiful that when fish saw her reflection in the water, they would forget how to swim and sink to the bottom of the lake.
4. Diao Chan is said to have been so radiant that the moon itself would hide away in shame upon seeing her.

The representation of each of these Beauties showcases the importance of pale, lighter skin, as each of these goddesses embodies an idealised view of how someone should look. Oval-shaped faces, delicate skin, and soft features were considered desirable. Affluent people were able to maintain pale skin because they didn't have to go out often. White skin became a desirable trait.

Beauty was symbolised as having a similarity with the moon; this concept was prevalent in Chinese culture. The moon was a female association due to the connection to the menstrual cycle.

In the Tang Dynasty (the Golden Age of China), new ideals of beauty were introduced. In previous ages, slender bodies were deemed the most beautiful, but this gradually changed, where overweight qualities were sought to be a symbol of wealth, as people were seen as able to afford food. The sudden change in physicality in the Chinese beauty standard identifies how larger bodies were originally viewed as healthy and beautiful.

In modern contexts, there has been a resort to the "skinny body" being the most attractive quality which matches contemporary standards, but some still carry the belief that a plumper figure is a staple of beauty, like that of the Tang Dynasty. Appearance is at the centremost of everyone’s lives, whether they deny it or not, and it's an unfortunate reality that people have to hear, but certainly not forcefully abide to.

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The Media and K-Beauty

Through media and celebrities, the popularity of features like slimness, youthfulness, and androgynous looks has refined the Asian beauty standard. Modern trends like Douyin makeup, surgeries in South Korea, and light makeup routines for men focusing on a matte look have also amplified how Asian beauty standards are showcased. Plastic surgery has become popular in Asia to conform to the strict beauty expectations, and the K-Beauty popularity in the 21st Century has driven a clearer desire for flawless skin and other ideals which were already trying to be enforced in previous dynasties.

Even more so today, through the media, K-pop and K-dramas, beauty routines are prioritised and adored among many, even outside of Asia and around the world. Beauty products have had a surge on social media, and filters and curated images further amplify the need for fitting into a specific beauty standard. This, as expected, has caused body dissatisfaction and insecurities

The rise of social media, with its filters and curated images, has further amplified the desire for specific beauty standards, sometimes leading to body dissatisfaction and increased rates of surgery because people can't fit into this 'box', which is small and suffocating.

Nikki Khanna has a book that delves into the concept of skin colour and how colourism manifests in Asian communities. She talks of how controversial the preferences for lighter skin are for Asian-American women, and challenges the 'lighter skin is more beautiful' phenomenon and belief.

Skin colour bias and beauty standards often go hand-in-hand through how being 'too dark' is deemed unattractive, and makeup in East Asian countries often contains whitening products to get this whiter appearance, but fortunately, people are questioning this and testing its racial motivations and underlying view on race.

Final Thoughts

Asian beauty standards have evolved over the years, from the beautiful bodies of the Silla Dynasty to the clear skin and light makeup of the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties in Korea. East Asia has adopted this foundation of beauty as a key to individuality.

In China, the Four Beauties and Chinese history have unveiled a similar standard to that of Korea in how lighter skin was the perfect standard, and being more petite was also a desirable trait. This shift during the Tang Dynasty in how a plumper body was seen in the same way as Aphrodite is still believed among some people in China today, but the resort back to the 'skinny body' still carries an enormous amount of weight on young people especially to fit in with the strict adhering beauty standard.

All standards are nearly impossible to meet, and in Asia, this appears to be a greater issue, especially after the Westernisation of beauty standards. This modern burden links to the evolving beauty standard from the past: pale skin being a sign of wealth and status, indicating that a woman did not need to work outdoors, and small features, like a small mouth and feet, being valued. Most ancient and even Confucian ideals (like female modesty and submissiveness) are relevant today through physical appearances, as delicate bodies are clearly favoured and seen as something to work towards.

Stop trying to fit into this 'box' which almost nobody can even get inside. Embrace your natural given beauty, and be in love with your own features, not the ones designed by society.